Tasting Notes
The color of the Riserva is deep ruby with orange hues. The nose immediately offers an ample, ripe bouquet of sottobosco and herbaceous notes joined by a whiff of sun dried tomatoes. After some aereation more subtle notes escape the glass: cherry and violets, a hint of button mushrooms. Even after long airing the bouquet stays persistently generous, nothing less could be expected from a Brunello Riserva.
The structure is firm with pleasantly grained tannins. This is expertly balanced by a juicy fruitiness and delightful acidity illustrating that a powerful wine need not renounce elegance. The initial sensory impressions are repeated on the palate and stay for many minutes in a never ending finish.
This is Brunello at its best – when a single bottle can be savoured for hours from the first whiff to the very last memory lingering on the palate.
With special thanks to Esther at Vino Vistas for providing these tasting notes.
Harvest Notes
I often exaggerate but in Montalcino 2015 really was one of the vintages of a lifetime, a year of unparalleled excellence, in short “una vendemmia da sogno”. The Consorzio del Brunello describe it as a vintage of “altissimo e raro livello qualitativa” extremely high and unprecedented quality. Nobody was surprised to see it awarded five stars in February 2016.
The vintage was distinguished by a cold, wet winter and a cool, rainy spring that established water reserves in the vineyards. We pruned in February and had budbreak on 7th April 2015 at Le Due Porte. There was double the foliage present in 2014 due to the warm autumn and wet 2014. The vines kept their green leaves for much longer than usual, allowing them to store good reserves of “sostanze.”
An extremely hot and dry July (even hotter than the scorching 2003) meant that the grapes changed color ten days earlier than usual and fruit was smaller than normal (good for the skin:flesh ratio). The heat was mitigated by showers at the end of the month and in early August (48 mm), and a marked thermal excursion permitted a long slow ripening, incredibly positive for the development of aromatics and tannins. A final blast of heat in August was great for the skins, again beneficial for aromatics and dry extract. After a rainy start, we the grapes enjoyed a wonderful September with ideal conditions for healthy development and perfect un-rushed ripening. Constant bunch-drying wind from the east and day/night temperature differences (15°C/34°C) continued to sustain aromatic development.
At our lower altitude vineyards we had earlier ripening and higher sugar levels. We picked the Castelnuovo vineyards on 17th and 18th September. The Due Porte vineyards were slower to mature and maintained wonderful acidity. We picked here a full ten days later on 27th and 28th September.
One of the defining characteristics of 2015 Brunello is a beautiful acidity that is often lacking in hotter years. 2015 followed sodden 2014, featured a hot growing season punctuated with “useful” rain after an early veraison, no extended periods of drought all summer and marked day/night thermal excursion from August onwards. Complexity of aroma, elegance and fine tannins are part and parcel of this lovely year.
Food Pairings
Created by Chef Stephen Woods (Waverly Inn, New York City)
Braised Veal Cheeks (Serve with Roasted Carrots, Roasted Cauliflower and a Sunchoke Puree)
Created by Chef Stephen Woods (Waverly Inn, New York City)
Ingredients for Braised Veal Cheeks:
• 4 veal cheeks
• 1 bottle dry white wine
• 2 carrots, chopped
• 1 leek, chopped
• 1 onion, chopped
• 5 cloves garlic
• 15 sprigs
• Italian parsley
• 4 sprigs thyme
• 2 bay leaves
• ¼ cup all-purpose flour
• 2 tsp sea salt
• 1 tsp black pepper
• Canola oil for searing
• 2‒3 cups marinade (strained, vegetables set aside)
• 2‒3 cups Chicken stock
• 1 bottle dry white wine
• 2 carrots, chopped
• 1 leek, chopped
• 1 onion, chopped
• 5 cloves garlic
• 15 sprigs
• Italian parsley
• 4 sprigs thyme
• 2 bay leaves
• ¼ cup all-purpose flour
• 2 tsp sea salt
• 1 tsp black pepper
• Canola oil for searing
• 2‒3 cups marinade (strained, vegetables set aside)
• 2‒3 cups Chicken stock
Directions:
• Assemble the ingredients for the marinade.
• Boil off the alcohol in the marinade. Add all the marinade ingredients to the pan and simmer over medium heat.
• Cool the marinade before pouring it over the veal the veal cheeks overnight.
• The next day, remove the veal cheeks from the marinade and pat them dry with paper towels.
• Dredge them in a mixture of salt, pepper, and flour. Dredge the veal cheeks and brown them on all sides. Heat a little oil in skillet and brown the veal cheeks on all sides. Then set the veal cheeks on a plate to rest.
• Strain the marinade, reserving the liquid and the vegetables separately. Toss the vegetables into the same frying pan the veal cheeks were in; saute them until softened and lightly browned. Meanwhile, heat the marinade to a simmer in a saucepan and skim off any scum that rises to the top.
• Add the braising liquids to the braising pan with veal cheeks and vegetables. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
• Braise the veal cheeks for 3‒4 hours in a 350 degree oven. Once the veal cheeks have braised for 3+ hours, they should be done—as in, fork tender.
• Pull cheeks out to rest, covered with foil, while you strain the solids out of the braising liquid. Reduce the strained braising liquid until a sauce consistency. Adjust the seasoning and serve with the cheeks.
• Boil off the alcohol in the marinade. Add all the marinade ingredients to the pan and simmer over medium heat.
• Cool the marinade before pouring it over the veal the veal cheeks overnight.
• The next day, remove the veal cheeks from the marinade and pat them dry with paper towels.
• Dredge them in a mixture of salt, pepper, and flour. Dredge the veal cheeks and brown them on all sides. Heat a little oil in skillet and brown the veal cheeks on all sides. Then set the veal cheeks on a plate to rest.
• Strain the marinade, reserving the liquid and the vegetables separately. Toss the vegetables into the same frying pan the veal cheeks were in; saute them until softened and lightly browned. Meanwhile, heat the marinade to a simmer in a saucepan and skim off any scum that rises to the top.
• Add the braising liquids to the braising pan with veal cheeks and vegetables. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
• Braise the veal cheeks for 3‒4 hours in a 350 degree oven. Once the veal cheeks have braised for 3+ hours, they should be done—as in, fork tender.
• Pull cheeks out to rest, covered with foil, while you strain the solids out of the braising liquid. Reduce the strained braising liquid until a sauce consistency. Adjust the seasoning and serve with the cheeks.
INGREDIENTS FOR SUNCHOKE PUREE:
• 1lb Sunchoke (aka Jerusalem Artichokes aka Helianthus
tuberosus), peeled & cubed• 1 ½ cups of Heavy Cream
• 2 Bay Leaves
• 1 tsp Kosher Salt
• ½ tsp Pepper
tuberosus), peeled & cubed• 1 ½ cups of Heavy Cream
• 2 Bay Leaves
• 1 tsp Kosher Salt
• ½ tsp Pepper
DIRECTIONS:
• In a saucepan combine the Sunchoke, cream, bay leaves and tsp of salt.
• Bring the cream to a simmer and cook until the Sunchoke are tender.
• Remove the bay leaves and move the rest of the mixture to a blender. Puree until smooth.
• Bring the cream to a simmer and cook until the Sunchoke are tender.
• Remove the bay leaves and move the rest of the mixture to a blender. Puree until smooth.
Reviews
TOM HYLAND ITALIAN WINE REPORT- MAY 2021 - 91 PTS (T.H.)
Deep garnet; aromas of morel cherry, paprika and thyme. Medium-full with very good to excellent concentration. This is ripe and tightly packed and has assertive herbal notes in the finish that dominate the fruit ay present. Good acidity, subdued wood notes and nicely balanced tannins. This needs 2-3 years at least to round out, with peak in 10-12 years.
Deep garnet; aromas of morel cherry, paprika and thyme. Medium-full with very good to excellent concentration. This is ripe and tightly packed and has assertive herbal notes in the finish that dominate the fruit ay present. Good acidity, subdued wood notes and nicely balanced tannins. This needs 2-3 years at least to round out, with peak in 10-12 years.
DECANTER - MARCH 2021 - 92 PTS (M.M.)
The first Riserva released since 2010, Il Palazzone’s 2015 is ethereal and subtle in fragrances with pretty blossoms, herbs and wafts of tea. Midweight, it exhibits Sangiovese’s delightful ability to remain buoyant. Orange and pomegranate grace the palate, which is sprinkled with powdery tannins, while a crunchy, mouth-cleansing cranberry note brings this to a close. It isn’t necessarily the most profound Riserva but it's very easy to like and sports a refreshingly balanced 13.5% alcohol. It begs for pappardelle with duck ragù. Drinking Window 2022 - 2032.
The first Riserva released since 2010, Il Palazzone’s 2015 is ethereal and subtle in fragrances with pretty blossoms, herbs and wafts of tea. Midweight, it exhibits Sangiovese’s delightful ability to remain buoyant. Orange and pomegranate grace the palate, which is sprinkled with powdery tannins, while a crunchy, mouth-cleansing cranberry note brings this to a close. It isn’t necessarily the most profound Riserva but it's very easy to like and sports a refreshingly balanced 13.5% alcohol. It begs for pappardelle with duck ragù. Drinking Window 2022 - 2032.
THE WINE ADVOCATE - NOV 2020 - 93 PTS (M.L.)
The Il Palazzone 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva sources its fruit from three vineyard sites and undergoes 36 long months of aging in traditional oak casks. The last time we saw a Riserva from this estate was in 2010, and previous releases include 2001, 2004 and 2006. This is a silky wine with light textural fiber and bright accents of red fruit, cherry, raspberry and blue flower. These results are lithe and graceful. They will speak to those who appreciate the more lightweight side of Brunello. Drinking window 2023 - 2043.
The Il Palazzone 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva sources its fruit from three vineyard sites and undergoes 36 long months of aging in traditional oak casks. The last time we saw a Riserva from this estate was in 2010, and previous releases include 2001, 2004 and 2006. This is a silky wine with light textural fiber and bright accents of red fruit, cherry, raspberry and blue flower. These results are lithe and graceful. They will speak to those who appreciate the more lightweight side of Brunello. Drinking window 2023 - 2043.
VINOUS.COM - NOV 2020 - 91 PTS (E.G.)
The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva slowly opens up in the glass, as a dusting of cedar and white smoke evolves to show notes of floral-laced woodland berries and hints of cinnamon and clove. It’s silky and textural, cast across a medium-bodied frame with brisk acids maintaining lift, while a perfumed display of wild strawberry and plum gives way to inner violet inflections. The balance here is really quite nice, tapering off with a twang of minerals, savory herbs and a subtle coating of rounded tannins. The 2015 Riserva won’t require too much time to come fully into focus, but I expect a few years of cellaring will bring forward further depths. Only 2,100 bottles were produced. Drinking window 2022 - 2030.
The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva slowly opens up in the glass, as a dusting of cedar and white smoke evolves to show notes of floral-laced woodland berries and hints of cinnamon and clove. It’s silky and textural, cast across a medium-bodied frame with brisk acids maintaining lift, while a perfumed display of wild strawberry and plum gives way to inner violet inflections. The balance here is really quite nice, tapering off with a twang of minerals, savory herbs and a subtle coating of rounded tannins. The 2015 Riserva won’t require too much time to come fully into focus, but I expect a few years of cellaring will bring forward further depths. Only 2,100 bottles were produced. Drinking window 2022 - 2030.